Article | December 11, 2024
How the Ballroom Scene Revolutionized Queer Culture and Fashion
By Nicholas O'Connor
Article | December 11, 2024
How the Ballroom Scene Revolutionized Queer Culture and Fashion
By Nicholas O'Connor
PHOTO: Photo illustration by Catherine McGann
Ballroom isn't a subculture; it's a phenomenon that for decades has shaped queer identity, creativity, and resilience. Born out of need and rebellion, this thriving community went way past its underground beginnings to make its mark on the fashion, music, and cultural mainstream. But to understand its true revolutionary power, we have to step back into its history, take a walk up and down the runway of its traditions, and marvel at the artistry it continues to foster.
PHOTO: SS Crystal LaBeija
The Birth of Ballroom: A Rebellion Against Exclusion
The ballroom scene began in the early 20th century as a response to the exclusion of Black and Latinx LGBTQ+ individuals from predominantly white queer spaces. Drag balls existed in cities like Harlem during the Harlem Renaissance, but they were often segregated or limited in inclusivity.
By the 1960s and 1970s, pioneers such as Crystal LaBeija had founded spaces where queer folks marginalized by society could celebrate themselves unapologetically. This was how the House system emerged, made of chosen families led by "Mothers" or "Fathers" who nurtured, protected, and celebrated their "children." In fact, for many queer people of color, these houses became places of refuge in a world replete with racism, homophobia, and transphobia.
Voguing: The Language of Defiance
Perhaps one of the most iconic things to have come from the ballroom scene is voguing, an art form inspired by the poses in fashion magazines like Vogue. Far more than a dance, voguing is a language-a way of storytelling, self-expression, and defiance. The three main styles, known as Old Way, New Way, and Vogue Fem, reflect the evolution of this art to celebrate the fluidity of gender and the power of self-confidence.
The 1990 documentary Paris Is Burning captured voguing in its prime, catapulting the art form into the mainstream. Shortly after, Madonna's hit song "Vogue" paid homage to the movement, bringing it to global audiences. Yet, even as it gained popularity, many of the originators-Black and Latinx queer folks-were erased from the narrative. Today, there's a growing effort to credit ballroom's innovators and honor their legacy.
PHOTO: SS Paris Is Burning
PHOTO: SS Beyonce RWT Vogue Interlude
Fashion: The Runway as Resistance
Ballroom is undeniably influential in fashion. From the over-the-top gowns of the Fem Queens to the sharp, tailored looks of the Butch Queens, ballroom categories celebrate creativity while challenging traditional gender norms. Competitions often take the form of high-fashion runway shows, with participants creating couture-level designs from thrift store finds or DIY materials.
Mainstream fashion has borrowed from ballroom aesthetics for a long time. Designers like Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier have drawn inspiration from the scene, while contemporary brands like Balenciaga and Telfar collaborate with ballroom icons. Even pop stars like Beyoncé and Rihanna have incorporated ballroom elements into their performances, nodding to the scene's unparalleled flair for drama and elegance.
Community and Resilience
Ballroom, at its core, is about survival. For many participants, it offers them a sense of belonging that society would otherwise deny them. Houses serve as chosen families, offering emotional support, mentorship, and protection in a world that often feels hostile.
Ballroom is also a site of social commentary. Categories such as "Realness" ask participants to pass as a certain identity and thus reveal how society polices appearances. Meanwhile, categories such as "Bizarre" are a push for creativity to allow participants to envision futures free of oppression.
PHOTO: SS Ballroom Contest
The Legacy and Future of Ballroom
Today, the ballroom scene is in the midst of a renaissance. Shows like Pose and Legendary bring the culture to new audiences while honoring its pioneers. Social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram amplify the voices of current ballroom legends, ensuring that their stories reach queer youth worldwide.
Yet, even as ballroom gains recognition, it's a lifeline for many. A refuge for LGBTQ+ people of color, ballroom fosters resilience, creativity, and joy in the face of adversity. Its influence on queer culture and fashion is immeasurable, but its biggest gift is the community it has built—a family bound by love, pride, and the power of the runway.
The ballroom scene isn’t just a piece of queer history; it’s a living, breathing testament to the power of creativity and self-expression. As it continues to evolve, it reminds us of the beauty of chosen families, the importance of resilience, and the transformative power of unapologetic authenticity.